This invention relates generally to an improved method and apparatus for laying tile. In particular, this invention relates to a method of using tile regulators to provide both the proper grout spacing, and vertical and horizontal plumb levels, to enhance the ease of installing tile and the final appearance of newly laid tile. The tile regulators of the present invention vary in several characteristics, for example, shape, pitch and color that further simplify the tiling process.
Tile provides not only an especially esthetically pleasing look, but also a durable surface for a variety of residential and industrial settings. Tile work is generally considered an improvement upgrade to a kitchen, floor, bathroom, and the like, where ceramic tile is installed on the underlayment of either a floor or wall, or both.
With the strong, present economy, individuals and businesses have generated a greater amount of disposal income that can be put toward general home and business improvements. A vast majority of these improvements comprise an element of new tile work to a kitchen and bathroom, as the walls and floors are reconditioned and upgraded to new ceramic tile surfaces. Even without the present robust economy, there has always been, and will remain, a large amount of ongoing tile work associated with new construction.
Further, there has also been a concurrent explosion in the construction of home improvement mega-stores which supply the every expanding class of do-it-yourselfers (those finding more pleasure in tackling home and business projects themselves than hiring outside contractors) with the parts and confidence to complete their own improvement jobs. This growth has, in turn, produced a large market of home and business improvement books, Internet services providing step-by-step instructions, and several new TV shows and video programs for the do-it-yourselfers.
The present invention provides novel tile regulators and a method of using them that is simple enough to be employed by one with little or no skill in laying tile. The present invention is further economically justified for use by experienced contractors since the present invention shaves valuable time off the average professional job, and produces a better aligned tile surface which lowers the repair cost of mislaid tile.
Ceramic tile is an attractive and exceptionally durable material for walls and floors of a bathroom, kitchen or any room that needs a durable and easily maintained surface. Laying tile is not particularly difficult for the novice, but does require preparation and some time.
Several distinct steps are necessary between simply deciding to tile a specific surface, and a finished tiled wall or floor. These steps include, for example, choosing the type of tile, choosing the type of adhesive the preparation of the underlayment and surface, and various other steps to both layout and install the tiles.
Choosing the right ceramic tile is typically difficult part of a tile project for the homeowner business owner. There are literally thousands of colors, sizes, styles, shapes and grades of tile. Presently, white and almond color are the most common for tiles, although designs with more color have gained in popularity. Colors are getting warmer and brighter, as well as clearer and cleaner. The most popular tile sold is 4xc2xcxe2x80x3 square wall tile. However, a current trend is towards larger tiles, for example, 8xe2x80x3xc3x978xe2x80x3 to 12xe2x80x3xc3x9712xe2x80x3.
Small one-inch tiles also are common. These 1xe2x80x3xc3x971xe2x80x3 tiles are sometimes referred to as mosaic tile because they can be mixed with different colors to create borders, patterns, and even pictures. Mosaic tile may be joined together in, for example, 12xe2x80x3xc3x9712xe2x80x3 or 12xe2x80x3xc3x9724xe2x80x3 sheets to make them easier and quicker to set.
The materials that makes up tile, and the methods of manufacturing, determine the tile""s durability, appearance and absorption. Most ceramic tile is glazed. Glazed tile is produced from a mixture of clays that are pressed into a particular shape. A xe2x80x9cglazexe2x80x9d is then applied to the top of the tile and baked on. Glazed tiles are typically available in high-gloss, matte, and abrasive, slip-resistant finishes. Glazed tiles also come in decorative styles with a pattern or hand-painted design. Since glazed tiles tend to get scratched frequently when used on floors and countertops, they are typically used on walls. Floor tile should have a finish that is not too slippery for walking on, and that does not show scratches easily. Small, mosaic tile is made up from different types of clay, with various color pigments added. Mosaics are suitable for almost any surface because they resist moisture, are stain-proof and will not chip easily.
Quarry tile is a broad classification for any tile made out of a mixture of clays. They are usually deep red in color and are left unglazed. These types of tile are frequently used for interior floors because of their porousness and irregular shapes. The surfaces of quarry tile may be sealed or unsealed, although they typically stain if left unsealed.
Natural materials like slate, marble, granite, and limestone, cut into thin pieces and installed like tile are also popular. Alternatively, natural-looking tiles that resemble marble, slate, limestone and granite are just as durable, and cost as much as 75 to 80 percent less than using the natural material.
Most lines of tile comprise some special tiles for creating borders and accents, and for finishing corners and edges. Sometimes, these special tiles, bullnose tiles, will be rounded at the edges. A single-edged bullnose tile can be used to finish off the top of a wall, like a bathtub surround, or the edge of a countertop. A double-out bullnose has two rounded edges for finishing off the corner of a tile section. Edge tile is used for around the overhang of a countertop. Further, the bottom row of wall tile is generally made up of special base tiles. Base tiles are flared at the bottom and make a smooth transition to the floor. The top of a base tile is square to butt up to the regular wall tile.
Pattern options available when laying tile are virtually endless. However, there are two basic patterns in common usage. The xe2x80x9cjack-on-jackxe2x80x9d pattern is the most common, where the tile is laid like squares on a checkerboard. A xe2x80x9crunning bondxe2x80x9d pattern has offset grout lines for every other row. While both are fairly easy to set, the running bond pattern is generally the more difficult of the two.
After settling on a particular tile line, the proper adhesive for the job must be addressed. The type of adhesive used depends on the location of tiling, and the surface (underlayment) under the tiling. Thinset adhesive can support a lot of weight so it is often used for floor installations. Thinsets also can be used in wet areas as well as those exposed to heat. Thinset adhesives come in powder form and must be mixed with either water, liquid latex, or an acrylic additive depending on the type. Thinsets are considered harder to work with because they must be mixed to the right consistency before using. Thinsets have a stronger bond and are more flexible than organic mastics.
Organic mastics are the most commonly used adhesives by do-it-yourselfers. They are pre-mixed and ready-to-use, thus considered easier to work with and less time consuming than thinset adhesives. Mastics are good for setting wall tile because they start gripping the tile even before the mastic is fully cured. Mastics have their drawbacks, as should not be used in areas that will get wet or will be exposed to extreme heat.
The final preparatory step before the start of a tile job is selecting the tools needed for the job. Many different tools are used for preparing and setting tile. A tile cutter is the best tool for quick and accurate straight cuts. It holds the tile in a frame as a cut line is scored with a small wheel. For repeatable, clean cuts, the scoring wheel may be replaced often. The tub saw, used mostly by professionals for straight cuts, gives clean, smooth edges. It cuts with a diamond-blade that is bathed in water to keep it cool.
A tile nipper is used for irregular cuts. First, a cut line is scored with a glass cutter or utility knife. Then, the tile nipper nibbles off small bits of tile until the proper shape is achieved. Since tile nippers can leave jagged edges on tile, the tile is generally used in less visible areas, or where it will be covered with trim, like around plumbing fixtures. Another tool for creating irregular cuts is a rod saw having a carbide-grit blade. For perfect circle cuts, like around faucets or supply lines, a carbide-tipped hole saw bit with a power drill works best. The rough edges may be smoothed with sandpaper.
Notched trowels are used to spread and xe2x80x9ccombxe2x80x9d adhesives onto the underlayment. Generally, two sides of the trowel are notched with either xe2x80x9cVxe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9csquare-shapedxe2x80x9d notches. A square-notched trowel is typically used to set thinsets on horizontal surfaces. V-notched trowels are used for setting mastics on vertical surfaces. Notched trowels come in different notch depths.
Grout floats are rubber or foam-faced trowels used to force grout into the joints between the tiles. Diagonally and back and forth sweeping motions work the grout into the joints.
A leveling board is yet another tool that can be made from a length of 2xe2x80x3xc3x974xe2x80x3 or a masonry level. The leveling board is placed over several tiles and gently tapped with a hammer to level the tiles in the adhesive. Lastly, a layout tool (sometimes called a jury stick) is a stick or board having marks to indicate tile spacing. It is used during the layout phase of a project to obtain the correct placement of tile.
After the final selection is made on the line of tiles, adhesive and tools, preparation of the surface to be tiled may begin. Because ceramic tile is rigid and somewhat brittle, a strong underlayment is the most important part of tile installation. New tile installation is only as good as the underlying floor. Thus, the subfloor must be adequate to support tile. Since tile can be heavy, it must be installed on a flat surface that is rigid. Subfloors under tile are typically no less than 1xe2x85x9xe2x80x3 thick. A flexing floor causes cracks to show up in the grout in the future, and may even cause tiles to break. If the floor xe2x80x9cbouncesxe2x80x9d when walked over, rigidity can be added by renailing the subfloor to the floor joists. Bridging between the joists also may be added, and/or shimming the subfloor with wooden shims driven between the top edge of the joists and the bottom face of the subfloor. The surface on which the tile is installed must be smooth and free from debris, grease or wax. Uneven floors, bumps or dips also can cause tile to break. Typically, uneven or damaged floors are best covered first with an underlayment to use as the tile base. One-half inch thick cement board is often recommended by tile manufacturers.
Other underlayment constructions include plywood that can be fastened with drywall screws every six inches on the edges and eight inches in the field. Ring-shank nails may be used. The heads of the screws or nails should be driven in below the surface of the plywood. In high-moisture areas, such as a bathroom floor, an isolation membrane is generally applied over a wood underlayment. This is a thin rubber-like material that will protect the tile from the expansion and contraction of the wood subfloor caused by temperature and humidity changes.
Backerboard can also be used, and has a solid concrete core and is faced on both sides with fiberglass. It is not damaged by water, which makes it ideal for bathroom and kitchen installations. Backerboard is installed much like a plywood subfloor except that it also needs to xe2x80x9csetxe2x80x9d on the subfloor using the same type of thinset adhesive that is used to set tiles.
Professional tile contractors often put down a mortar, or xe2x80x9cmudxe2x80x9d bed. It consists of a layer of roofing felt, a wire mesh, and then mortar. While a mortar bed is by far the best underlayment for floor tile, it takes a lot of skill to finish it off level and at just the right thickness.
A tile floor in a shower requires a shower pan be installed. A shower pan is a waterproof membrane designed to hold water, not just shed it. This membrane is secured to the mortar bed of a shower with adhesive. It is creased at the corners and is run up the sides of the shower to form a pan. The center of the membrane is cut out for the drain. Another layer of mortar goes over the membrane and is sloped down to the drain.
Although a tile wall does not need to support the weight that a tile floor does, the underlayment still must be flat, solid and secured well to the framing. When preparing new walls for tiling, the walls first are sealed with a thin coat of adhesive, taking care to pack any openings where pipes come through. When preparing existing walls to receive tile, flexible coverings are stripped off such as wallpaper and loose paint. When installing wall tile in a bathroom, an xe2x85x9xe2x80x3 space typically is left along the area where the wall meets the top of a tub or shower base. This is caulked later with silicon caulk. Caulk is flexible enough to allow movement, settling or expansion and contraction, without cracking.
Drywall is a standard wall covering in most residential construction. It is not considered a good underlayment for wall tile. Water-resistant drywall, or xe2x80x9cgreenboardxe2x80x9d is made out of the same gypsum core as drywall. The only difference is that it has a water-resistant facing. Greenboard can be used as an underlayment in damp areas such as bathroom walls where no bathtub or shower exist, or kitchen backsplaces. Concrete backerboard or a mudset with felt underlayment are the best materials to be used for tub surrounds and showers.
After the underlayment is prepared, tile is typically laid out on the underlayment to prepare various reference points and lines used layer in the actual tiling process. A row of floor tiles area are test-fit along each reference line to see how they lay out. The thickness of the grout lines are accounted for in this layout. While professional tile setters may only need a couple of reference lines to set tiles evenly, do-it-yourselfers should prepare more lines. Laying out sections, or a grid pattern, helps keep the tile straight and square. To layout a grid system correctly, one should begin with the basic essentials of the 3-4-5 triangle or the Pythagorean Theorem. Once a right angle has been established on the floor or wall all reference lines can be established for where to begin to lay tile. From the intersection of new reference lines, more tile is laid (about 2 or 3 square feet).
The basic principle of any tile layout is that full tiles are placed in the most visible areas of a room, and cut tiles hidden in less visible areas. One should not simply start laying tile in a corner and work outward.
Floor tiles are best centered in the room at a doorway for visual appearance or a prominent window. The center of two opposite walls are first measured, and these points used to snap a chalkline across the length of the room in the center of the floor, dividing the room in half. Another chalkline is snapped perpendicular to the first so the two lines cross in the center of the room. A row of tiles are dry-fit down both lines to the width and length of the room, while leaving a little spacing for the grout joints.
For tile layout on a wall, first the layout tool should be made. An easy way to do this is to lay out a row of tiles on the floor which are properly spaced. Both the width of the tile and of the grout lines must be considered. A straight stick is aligned with an edge against or on top of the row of tiles, and marked with the tile and grout spacing. This tool is in combination with a level to accurately layout the tile spacing on the walls.
Then, the planned location of any cabinets or accessories which are expected to hang on the wall are marked on the jury stick. If the job entails tiling a bathroom, one tile width plus xe2x85x9xe2x80x3 is generally measured up from the lowest spot where the top of the tub meets the wall. If the job is tiling a room with no tub or other obstruction, only one tile width is measured up from the floor""s lowest point. With this mark as a beginning reference, the layout tool can provide an estimate of how the tiles will lay in a vertical line.
Once the layout is established, the tile is set. The floor surface must be clean of dust and debris. Concurrently, the tile adhesive only in the amount to be used within 2-3 hours is prepared, which prevents the adhesive from drying out. The full tiles are set first, leaving any cut tiles around the perimeter of the room for last. To install floor tile, the tile is laid from the center of the floor where the two final reference lines cross. A tile at the intersection of the lines is first placed, then, using the lines as a guide, tiles are laid outward toward the walls in each quadrant. The adhesive is spread with the trowel""s notched edge, combing it out in beaded ridges. Spaces between ridges of adhesive should be almost bare.
Starting at the center of the floor, adhesive is spread evenly within one section using a notched trowel. Using the notched edges of the trowel, the adhesive is combed out. The top of the adhesive should have a uniform height. If the adhesive is too dry, the ridges won""t comb out evenly and there tends to be gaps. If the adhesive is too wet, the ridges won""t hold and they will all blend together.
The first tile in a corner is laid and twisted into the adhesive. About 70-80 percent of the tile backing should be covered with adhesive upon inspection. The remaining tiles are then set aligned to the outside layout lines. Keeping consistent spacing between the tiles is critical for straight, uniform grout lines. Some tiles come pre-mounted on paper grids so the spacing is already established. Once the tiles are in place, they are set into the adhesive so that they are all at the same height.
After setting all of the full tiles one can measure, cut and set the tile around the edges. If installing a tile floor that runs longer than 24 feet, or if the floor is near an outside wall or exposed to areas that will expand due to temperature and moisture changes, one will need to account for expansion joints. Expansion joints are simply breaks in the tile field that protect and cushion the tile from movements in the underlayment. In most homes, expansion joints can be made by stopping the perimeter tile xc2xc from the wall.
Sometimes it is difficult to trowel the adhesive directly on the floor, like under cabinets or in small areas. In these cases, the tiles need to be xe2x80x9cback butteredxe2x80x9d individually. That is, the adhesive is spread on the back of the tile with a notched trowel. If the tile is too small, a margin trowel also can be used to spread the adhesive and scratch in notches with the edge of the trowel.
Wall tile installation requires that the wall surface be thoroughly clean of dust and debris. A level board then is attached to the bottom of the base horizontal reference line. This board serves both as a guide and as a support for the tiles until the adhesive has a chance to set.
The first tile is set in a corner and twisted slightly to set it into the adhesive. Working in a pyramid shape from the crossed reference lines, the tiles are laid outward and upward. Once the tiles are in place, they are set into the adhesive, all at the same height. After all the whole tiles are set, the edges and trim tiles are used.
Once the tile adhesive is dry, grout is placed over the tile. There are two different types of grout: sanded and non-sanded. Sanded grout has sand added for strength. It is used for joints wider than {fraction (1/16)}xe2x80x3, like larger tile on floors. Non-sanded grout is usually mixed with a latex additive to make it stronger and more workable. It is used for joints less than {fraction (1/16)} for smaller wall and countertop tiles. The color of grout can greatly effect the look of tile. Generally, using a white or a light colored grout highlights the color in tile. Using a light grout with a light tile is good for hiding any mistakes made in setting the tile. Choosing a dark grout with a light tile, or light grout with a dark tile emphasizes the geometric pattern of layout. Gray is a good neutral color and it wears well on floors. It also looks good with natural-looking tiles like terra cotta.
Generally, the grout is mixed to the consistency of a thick paste and applied by forcing the grout between tiles with a rubber float held at a 45-degree angle. Then excess grout is wiped from the surface of the tiles. Alternately, the surface is wiped with a damp sponge. To recess the joints, joints are struck by gently drawing a wooden dowel or the handle of a toothbrush along the soft grout.
Seams are then with a bead of flexible water-soluble silicone caulking. After the grout has cured for a week, silicone grout sealer may be applied with a small paintbrush to retard grout discoloration. Typically, the use a padded grout float is used to spread the grout over a workable section of tile, pushing the grout diagonally across the joints to force it down into the gaps. All the joints are filled with grout except those that need expansion joints. These would be along fixtures, between the floor and walls, or joints in corners in between walls. These get sealed with caulk.
Caulk color should match the grout. Caulk in the areas that are left for expansion joints, and over joints that may crack because of movement. These areas are between floor tile and a cabinet toekick; between floor or wall tile and a bathtub or shower; between floor and wall tile; and at the inside corner where two walls meet.
Further, there are two different ways to xe2x80x9csealxe2x80x9d tile; sealing the grout joints, and sealing the tile itself. Basic glazed ceramic tile only requires the grout joints to be sealed. This makes them more water and mildew resistant, and help keep dirt out of the joints. If porous material like slate, marble or terra cotta is installed, the entire surface of the tiles should be sealed to prevent them from getting stained with use. An acrylic topcoat on the tile surface may be used.
Although not intended, set tiles break. Movement of wall supports, warping of building studs, or a shifting foundation can cause tiles to crack. Improper floor and wall preparation during the original installation can cause tiles to loosen. So can moisture or excessive vibrations, such as slamming doors or windows.
Cracked or broken ceramic tiles that are set over drywall are difficult to replace properly, because the drywall is usually also damaged and may need to be repaired first. When installing new ceramic tile, some tiles should be saved in case the need to replace a few arises. It""s almost impossible to buy a new tile to match your existing one.
If a single tile has been cracked or chipped, it can usually be repaired without replacing the underlayment. To replace one tile, the grout is first dug around it with a grout saw. The broken tile is then shattered into small pieces by hitting it with a hammer and a nail set or chisel. The pieces are paired out and the grout and adhesive are removed with a chisel or putty knife. A new one tile is set with a silicone adhesive. Then the tile is pressed into place and cleaned any of the adhesive that oozes through the joints. A wall tile is replaced by taping a new tile into place until it dries. When only grouting a small area, a little container of premixed grout may do. The grout is worked into the joints with a grout float.
Clay is a material that, no matter how flat or square the clay is prior to heating, is subject to deformations or alterations upon heating that cause every ceramic tile to vary in size from one another. Therefore, no two ceramic tiles are exactly same size. When ceramic tiles are placed in concert with each other (i.e. rows comprising several tiles placed next to each other), the accumulated error from the slight variation in size between individual tiles an become unsightly even after the placement of just a few adjacent tile, no matter how careful the installer is when laying the tiles. This error causes separate rows of tiles to terminate at different stopping points, even though each row comprises the same in size and shape of tiles, all made by the same manufacturer, and even when the same number of tiles are used in each row.
This error factor accumulation also occurs when laying stone or marble tile, not just ceramic tiles. Stone is cut into tiles of uniform thickness and size. However, stone cutting is a process that requires extensive labor to position the stone to be cut, no matter how well designed the cutting machine. As a result, no two stone tiles will ever be the same size.
Whether installing ceramic or stone tile, any tile application system that does not contemplate the variables in tile composition and production will produce a visually unpleasant and undesirable placement of tile.
To compensate for these variables when laying tile on a floor or staking tile on a wall, professional installers constantly provide micro-adjustments to the space between tiles. Typically, the installer uses materials on the job site to fashion tools the installer uses to provide an even and uniform appearance to the tiles after they have been set in place. In one example, installers place wedge-like pieces between adjacent tiles in order to adjust the distance between the tiles. Pieces of paper or cardboard, folded to create varying thicknesses, or scrap ceramic or stone tile that has been cut with tile nippers or pliers so that a wedge-shaped piece is created from the broken fragments of tile are the most common materials used on the job site by tile applicators for providing these adjustments. The fragments are inserted between adjacent tiles to adjust for the size differences that exist between rows of tiles stacked or laid together. Yet, this process is cumbersome and lengthens the tile application time, as well as creates unsatisfactory results when trying to make constant adjustments.
In addition, though some ceramic tiles may have a grout spacer provided when the ceramic tiles are manufactured, many European ceramic tiles and all stone tiles do not provide this benefit when manufactured, resulting in the need for a constant unit of measurement to maintain uniform grout thickness. Tile spacers are known that are made from plastic, usually forming a cross, each piece comprising the cross having the same thickness. This type of spacer can be applied at every intersection of four corners of adjacent tiles, each tile contributing one corner, in a uniform fashion.
However, cross-type tile spacers are of uniform thickness, and do not take into account the varying sizes of tiles as described above. Thus, a tile installer may provide an installation having uniform grout thickness using the crosses, but that does not mean the tiles will maintain a uniform height with even rows top to bottom and left to right, without the need for further micro-adjustments. When installed, tile loses its vertical plumb, or its horizontal level, over short distances. What is needed is a spacer, and a method of using spacers, which can compensate for these conditions, which spacer must be easy to use and install. Further, any improved tile spacer also should be capable of providing rapid adjustment of the plumb and level variables while the tiles are being installed.
Thus, it can be seen that there is a need for a method and apparatus for laying tile while maintaining uniform regulation of horizontal level, vertical plumb and spacing between rows and columns of the tiles, said method comprising spreading and adhesive material on the substrate to which said tiles are to be applied.
Briefly described, in a preferred form, the present invention overcomes several disadvantages in conventional tile installation by providing tile regulators and a method of using them that provide both the proper grout spacing between tiles and vertical and horizontal plumb levels of the tiles, which regulators enhance the ease of installing the tiles and the final appearance of the newly laid tile.
One of several important aspects of this invention is that it incorporates the usage of maintaining vertical plumb and horizontal level with a leveling tool. The single most important element in laying tile or stone is the function of gravity, and it is the ancients who invented the plumb bob and the water level to master the effects of gravity in construction to build within the limits of gravity. This tile invention provides the regulator essential to the laying of tile or stone to maintain the appearance of plumb and level, in conduction with a water level or a plumb bob.
Various ancient cultures, including Egypt, Greece, Rome, and China, based some or most of their artwork and construction on the 3-4-5 triangle. This triangle is the ancient reckoning system for establishing right angles to determine level and plumb. History has assigned this reckoning system with the name the Pythagorean Theorem. This theory provides one to achieve a translation between right triangles and to establish a square. Tile is probably one of the most ancient forms of building materials that has endured because of it""s extreme durability and also as a form of expression for artists. It is also a material based upon the right angle and most ancient forms of architecture have incorporated the use of tiles, whether mosaic or diagonal, on the square. The single point of construction is the use of this right angle theory with the use of a plumb bob or a water level. The function of gravity is the unalterable unit of measurement that establishes the function of square, and there is no product that can be used in construction that does not take this unit of measurement in consideration.
Likewise, there is no tile product that does not depend on anything less than the measurement o f the right angle to be installed properly. As has been established, there is no tile or stone product that is not perfectly square, and as a result, the act of building or laying tile within a right angle will inevitably result in the loss of plumb or level without some minor adjustments to repair the inaccuracies of man made products. This has been a constant labor factor for any tile installations, from ancient civilization to current history.
In an effort to overcome the above problems, the present invention is a tool that will effectively repair the vertical plumb and horizontal level in a fast, convenient, and economical manner, in the process of installing ceramic or stone tile on floors or walls. The present tile regulators are designed to compensate for the existing limiting conditions associated with conventional regulating products.
A preferred tile regulator used to maintain uniform regulation of horizontal level, vertical plumb and spacing between rows and columns of the tiles comprises a wedged-shaped element having a thickness defined as the distance between a top and bottom surface of the element. The element has a front and back end, wherein the top and bottom surfaces diverge from a point of meeting at the front end of the wedged-shaped element. Preferably, the top and bottom surfaces extend from the point of meeting to the back end of the element, wherein the back end of the element has a thickness greater than the thickness of the front end of the element.
Further disclosed herein are methods of using different embodiments of the tile wedge/regulator to lay tiles on a substrate to maintain uniform regulation of horizontal level, vertical plumb and spacing between rows and columns of the tiles by spreading an adhesive material on the substrate, placing tiles in columns and rows on the substrate and in contact with said adhesive, and placing wedge/regulator elements between the edges of adjacent tiles.
These and other objects, features, and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following specification in conjunction with the accompanying drawing figures.